I started perusing commercial bloop tubes and I kept running
into the same problem. Either they were
designed for a specific rifle, so I was out of luck, or they needed a good
straight muzzle shank to clamp onto.
Now, a lot of Anschutz muzzles just have two small grooves, so I can see
how that works, but the Ural has a big dovetail fitting. I looked at removing the fitting, but I was
pretty sure I’d ruin the flat black (Teflon?) coating on the barrel. So the only solution was a custom fabricated
clamp that reached around the sight clamp.
There’s a decent chunk of muzzle exposed in front of the dovetail
fitting giving me a solid index. I just needed to extend the clamp back to
firmly hold behind the fitting.
This shows the standard muzzle and sight. The boss around the muzzle seems about as permanent as it can get without scratching up the finish.
I started drawing up what I wanted, with a plan to machine
it out of aluminum. I had tried various
muzzle weights to see if I could get some barrel tuning out of them, but I
could only find configurations that made things worse. Either I’ve been doing it wrong, or the
Russians knew what they were doing in the first place. This led me to plan on making the tube as
light as possible. Because of this, and
the coolness factor, I planned on a carbon fiber tube with aluminum end
fittings. Finally, after my successful
experience with the 3D printed sight risers, I decided to build the end
fittings from plastic instead of aluminum.
If they turned out to be too flexible, I had aluminum to fall back on.
Component prices came out pretty reasonable.
The carbon fiber tube, part number 5287T13, was $26.22 from
McMaster.com.
The epoxy to bond it, part number 1813A243, was $16.34,
though JB-Weld would have worked.
The aluminum shaft clamp, 9520T14, was $14.10.
The 3D printed nose and rear cap were $29.07 and $40.82
respectively from Shapeways.com.
Grand total: $126.45.
Commercial bloops run $100-$200 and wouldn’t fit anyway, so
I’m happy. I’ll be happier if it shoots
well.
There are a few issues.
The clamp model from McMaster wasn’t 100% accurate, so I made the
fastener head clearance a little tight.
Nothing some grinding couldn’t cure.
The thing is plastic after all, so I’m expecting the sight zero won’t be
that reliable after removing and replacing the tube. I like to show up for a match with the gun
ready to go, and just take a few practice shots to verify. With this tube, I will either need to go
through a zeroing ritual every match, or build an extra-long case so I can
carry the rifle with the tube installed.
I’ll eventually be doing a series of remove-replace tests on the bench
rest to verify this, but I can’t imagine it will repeat very well.
Range report to follow.
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